Nymph · Trout · Grayling · Intermediate · 1 version
Fischer's Flies
Hook Fulling Mill FM5045 Jig Force barbless jig hook, 14
Thread Brown 70D
Materials
Bead Black bead (3.2mm slotted tungsten)
Case Brown permanent marker (Fulling Mill Chewy Worm Chenille, small)
Head and legs Light olive rubber legs (Fulling Mill Tactical Microflash Dub)
Resin Clear uv resin (Solarez Bone Dry UV resin)
How to tie it
Seat the 3.2mm black slotted bead against the jig eye and start the brown 70D behind it, building a small collar of wraps to stop the bead sliding back once the fly is fishing.
Run the thread back to the start of the bend and tie in one end of the small brown chewy worm chenille, binding the tag forward a short way so the soft chenille has a firm anchor and cannot pull free.
Palmer the chenille forward in touching turns to the 75% mark to build the caddis case. Keep the wraps tight against each other so the case looks like a solid tube of glued debris rather than a chenille body with gaps showing thread.
Tie off the chenille, trim, and pick the fibers out with a bodkin or brush them roughly. A real cased caddis is untidy and irregular, so the scruffier the case reads the better it works.
Dub a short, bright light olive microflash thorax from the 75% mark to the bead and pick out fibers underneath for legs. That flash of pale green is the larva poking out of the front of its case and is what a trout actually keys on.
Whip finish behind the bead and put a thin coat of Bone Dry over the thread wraps at the tie-in and tie-off points only, so the case and thorax stay soft and mobile.