Bead Slotted tungsten, matte black (1, sized to hook)
Hot spot Semperfli UV Cheeky, small (2-3 in)
Body Semperfli Nano Silk 12/0 (thread body, slight taper)
Rib Semperfli 0.2 mm wire, silver (1 strand)
Thorax Peacock eye herl, black (1 long fibre)
Resin Semperfli No Tack UV (1 drop, plus a drop in the bead slot)
How to tie it
Slide a matte black slotted tungsten bead onto a Moonlit ML056 size 14 jig hook, mount it, and start black Nano Silk behind the bead. Build a dam of six to eight wraps to hold the bead; if it wobbles, pinch it up where you want it and build the dam against it. Cut the tag out.
Cut two or three inches of Semperfli UV Cheeky and tie it in anywhere secure behind the bead, then run the thread all the way back to the bend and a couple of wraps past it. You want thread underneath the Cheeky, not bare hook.
Wrap the Cheeky down into the bend in overlapping wraps, keeping tension so it does not slide, going about a sixteenth of an inch past the bend, then back up over those wraps.
Take a third pass down and back. Two layers still let the black thread show through, and the whole point of the material is that it shines. Keep tension on, but not enough to stretch the material out. Secure with the thread.
Build a slight taper forward with the Nano Silk. It takes a lot of wraps to build bulk with this thread, which is exactly why it makes a clean small body.
Tie in the 0.2 mm silver wire, tucking the tag end up into the bead slot. Get several good wraps on before you pull on the wire. Pull early and it comes straight back out.
Take the thread back over the front edge of the Cheeky until it tapers down neatly, then forward again covering the wire, keeping the wraps tidy since this is the whole underbody.
Start the wire with three touching turns at the rear as a second, flashy hot spot, thumb them together to close the gaps, then carry on forward with evenly spaced turns like a zebra midge, plus a few extra behind the bead for weight. Snip with flush cutters.
Put one drop of Semperfli No Tack on the body and spread it with a bodkin, making sure the Cheeky is covered. Then brush the excess off with your fingers so the wire segmentation still stands out rather than being flooded flat. Cure for about ten seconds from all angles.
Pluck one fibre from a black peacock eye. The fibres are far longer than anything in a herl pack, which is what this thorax wants. And tie it in by its base with a few extra wraps, since the body underneath is now resined.
Palmer five or six touching turns for a buggy thorax and tie off with three wraps only: one in front, one behind, one in front. Bulk here pushes the peacock away from the bead.
Whip finish with three more turns, six wraps total between peacock and bead, and snip.
Drop UV resin into the bead slot. It runs down into the whip finish and locks the whole head. Cure.