Put the 2.5mm black nickel tungsten bead on a size 14 barbed nymph hook, run the thread into the slot of the bead and wind around until it jams. That is what keeps the bead from sliding.
Lay a thread base back to just before the bend, using the tag end to keep it even.
Tie in the small copper wire on the near side of the hook.
Pull a bunch of six to eight pheasant tail fibres away from the stem to even the tips, snip them off, and measure them against the shank so the tail is one shank length.
Pinch wrap them in, a loose wrap up between the fingers, pulled down so the fibres are trapped on top of the hook. Then one more wrap over and bring the thread in front.
Wind the pheasant tail forward, either by hand or with the rotary function, taking the first turn right back underneath to cover the thread, and stop short of the bead to leave room for the thorax. Tie off.
Counter-wind the copper wire forward over the body, tie it off, and helicopter the wire to break it.
There is no wing case on this version. Take a single strand of peacock herl and tie it in.
Wrap the herl around the thread before winding. It gives the peacock some strength, then wind the reinforced herl to build the thorax.
Choose a CDC feather with fibres a little longer than the hook shank, pull the fibres back to expose the tip, and tie it in tightly by the tip, folding the tip back rather than trimming it.
Grip it with hackle pliers, wet your fingers and fold the CDC fibres back, then wind about three turns forward and tie off. You do not need a lot of CDC on a small fly.
Wet the fingers again, fold the fibres back and take a couple of wraps to secure them, then whip finish. Add superglue or resin to lock it, and pinch off any stray fibres.