Body Semperfli 0.2mm wire, copper and brown wound together (1 length of each)
Poof CDC, natural white (1 feather)
Collar Peacock herl (1)
Head Loon UV Fly Finish Flow (a drop on the thread)
How to tie it
Slide a Czech glass bead onto the Stealth C14, these beads are even both ends, so there is no countersink to worry about, and mount the hook.
Start 18/0 Nano Silk behind the bead, wrap back to it and cut the tag. The underbody is critical on a wire fly, and the flat nano silk lies down almost level with the shank.
Tie in the copper wire first with its end tucked up slightly inside the bead, sitting on top of the shank but a touch towards you rather than dead centre, then lay the brown wire alongside it so the two are touching on top. Staggering the two wires this way is what gives the body its circular, alternating look.
Hold the wires up at a slight angle as you wrap so the thread slides down them into touching wraps, and do not pull on them. They are only anchored at the bead end. Carry the wraps well round the bend, past where the barb would be, then work back up to the bead in touching wraps.
Bend the first wire down towards you and bring both round together, seating them right up against the first wrap rather than over it. Push each pair of wraps up against the previous ones with a fingernail as you go, but not so hard that you shove the second wrap over the first.
Continue up the shank keeping the two wires side by side without twisting them, as you would a hackle or a biot, so the colours alternate all the way. Use the bead to push the last wraps tight, and check every couple of turns that no underbody is showing through.
Snip the wires off at the bead.
Pull one CDC feather and note its natural curve, that curve wants to arc up off the shank. Preen the fibres together to a point, tie the tip in on top with a couple of securing wraps, pull it to length and start wrapping back over the stem.
Rather than folding the butt straight back on itself, tie the butts in slightly higher up so the poof is forced into an arc, then bring the feather back over the top and secure the tip with a couple of wraps. Set the loop to the size you want, add firm securing wraps and trim the stray fibres. Do not pull hard on the stem at this stage or the poof collapses.
Tie in a peacock herl by the butt with the wrap already starting, and wind three to five touching wraps forward to the bead, adding one extra hard against the bead so the collar is dense. Tie off tight against the bead so the wraps slide down into the groove, and cut the herl.
Whip finish three turns, then a second whip finish.
Put a drop of Loon UV Fly Finish Flow on the thread, coat it lightly, and whip finish once more, the coated thread slides down into the bead's groove so no bumps show, then cut the thread and cure for five to ten seconds.