Rear hot spot Glo-Brite no. 1 floss, fuchsia (the rear third of the body)
Rib UNI-French wire, silver, small (one strand)
Body UNI-Mylar, holographic black, size 12 (one strand)
Thorax Sybai peacock dubbing, peacock black (a half-inch noodle)
Coating Solarez Bone Dry UV resin (a touch over the rear hot spot only)
How to tie it
Mount a Hanak H450BL in a size 14 with a 3mm silver slotted tungsten bead from Hazard Fly Fishing. Tim ties this from 14 down to 18.
Start with the Glo-Brite no. 1. The fuchsia is the hot spot material. Jam it against the bead, make a few wraps to secure the bead and clip the tag carefully, because Glo-Brite frays.
Wrap the Glo-Brite down to about the midpoint of the shank.
Pull away four to six Coq de Leon fibres in medium pardo and measure them at about one shank length, tips to bead.
Lock them in with one or two loose wraps so you can still adjust the length, then tighten and wrap back in touching turns.
At the barb position, check the tails are sitting on top of the shank and pointing straight back, then wrap forward again in touching turns.
Trim the butt ends near the bead, add a couple more wraps and whip finish the Glo-Brite off. It has now formed the whole underbody, and the rear hot spot with it. The point of this fly is that the hot spot is at the tail rather than at the bead.
Attach black UNI 8/0 and tie in small silver UNI-French wire, jamming it into the slotted bead to hold it while you work.
Wrap the black thread back, but only as far as roughly the hook point. You want the hot spot to occupy about the rear third of the body, not counting the thorax: visible, but not overwhelming the fly. Mind the wire tips, which will fray your thread.
Wrap forward a few turns and tie in the UNI-Mylar in holographic black, size 12. Tying it in slightly forward of the wire avoids the harsh point this mylar tends to make.
Secure it, take one full wrap, wrap back towards the hot spot and pull down hard, then wrap forward again, bearing down as you go. Two thread wraps to lock, one in front, pinch the tag down along the body and trim it. Any stub left will be covered by the thorax.
Counter-rib forward with the silver wire, keeping the spacing as even as you can, lock it with a wrap in front and a couple over, then helicopter it off.
Dub a very fine noodle of Sybai peacock black (about half an inch, no more) for the thorax, a couple of wraps, then straight to the front and whip finish.
Trim the thorax fibres all the way round with a few cuts, leaving a little bugginess but not enough to overwhelm the fly.
Finally, secure the rear hot spot with head cement or a minute touch of Solarez Bone Dry. The Glo-Brite is the one fragile part of the fly.