Hook Standard dry fly hook, #12-16 (the book gives #14)
Thread Black 70 denier
Materials
Golden pheasant crest feather Golden yellow pheasant crest (One small feather for the tail)
Wire Copper, extra small (One length for the rib)
Peacock herl Natural peacock herl (Two or three strands)
Calf tail White calf body hair (Small to medium stacked clump for the wing)
Dry fly hackle Coachman brown (traditionally brown mixed with grizzly dyed orange) (One feather, six or seven turns)
Head cement Clear head cement (One drop)
How to tie it
Mount a #14 barbless dry fly hook and lay a black thread base back to where the barb would be.
Tie in a small golden pheasant crest feather at the bend as the tail, working the position until the natural curve slants gently downward; use a couple of loose wraps to check it before locking it in.
Move the thread to the mid-shank, tie in extra small copper wire and bind it back to the tail.
Tie in two or three strands of peacock herl at the mid-shank, bind them back to the tail, then wrap them forward without twisting them into a rope, leaving the front third of the shank bare; tie off.
Counter-wrap the copper wire forward through the herl to armour it, tie it off with a couple of extra wraps and break off the tag.
Stack a small to medium clump of white calf tail, cord the thread with a clockwise spin, and tie the wing in at the front third pointing forward, one body-length long; take one wrap up over and around just the hair to keep it from spinning, then tighter wraps.
Trim the calf tail butts at an angle and spin a few wraps over them to smooth the drop-off so the hackle will wrap cleanly.
Tie in the brown dry fly hackle, sized so the fibres are not much longer than the hook gap, and take six or seven turns for a heavily hackled fly; tie off.
Whip finish without trapping fibres and add a drop of head cement.