Hook TMC 200R continuous-curve nymph with 1/8" tungsten bead, 8
Thread Dark brown 6/0
Materials
Tungsten bead Brown ('magic brown') (1/8")
Lead wire (.030-.035 (lead-free works))
Goose biots Brown goose biots (4 (2 tail, 2 legs))
Turkey quill, white-tipped Mottled brown turkey quill (1 feather (pre-sprayed with fixative), body and wing pads)
Solarez UV resin (On the thread (full-body coat optional))
How to tie it
Slide the bead to the eye and lay a full thread base down the shank so nothing slides.
Tie in the split tail: one brown goose biot on each side at the rear, curved sides out. Stoneflies carry a big split tail. If they roll, a turn of thread behind them re-splays them. Match the lengths before locking down.
Wrap the.035 lead forward over the shank, leaving a little space at the front; clip with side nippers. Smooth the step behind the lead with thread wraps or a dab of UV resin so the body tapers cleanly into the tail.
Tie in the turkey quill strip by its tip at the rear (pre-treat the feather with spray fixative or flex cement so it doesn't split) and wrap it forward with slightly overlapping turns to the thorax. The natural mottling makes very authentic segmentation. Tie off.
Cut a turkey section a little wider than the body and shape the end with scissors (or a stonefly wing burner) for the first wing pad. Build a small thread hump, then tie the pad in flat over the thorax with a soft loop so it flares slightly; trim the butt at an angle and bind down.
Cut and shape a second, slightly narrower turkey wing pad and tie it in ahead of the first.
Tie one brown goose biot along each side at the thorax, pointing rearward, as legs.
Whip finish behind the bead and coat the thread with Solarez UV resin; a coat over the whole body is optional if you want extra durability.