Thread Pearl, then coloured olive with a marker at the head 3/0 (Danville waxed monocord)
Materials
Bead Slotted tungsten (3.2 mm)
Tail Chartreuse marabou (a short tuft)
Rib Fine copper wire (about an inch and a half)
Body Peacock herl (1-2 strands, taken from the eye for longer fibres)
Hackle Grizzly (any hackle will do) (1 feather)
Thorax Ice Dub, light olive (a small pinch)
Coating Loon UV resin (1 drop at the head)
How to tie it
Slide a 3.2 mm slotted tungsten bead onto a size 16 barbless jig hook and start the pearl monocord behind it. Hold the thread up at an angle as you lay the base wraps. It guides the thread down the shank so you get clean touching wraps.
Run the base back so the tail will shoot slightly downwards.
Tie in a small tuft of chartreuse marabou on top of the shank, centred, and bring it down to where the thread base ends. Keep the tail short, about an eighth of an inch.
Tie in the copper wire. There is no need to build a thread dam behind the bead for this one, there is not enough material coming up front to need it.
Tie in the peacock herl, taken from near the eye of the feather so the fibres are longer. Old herl is brittle, so handle it gently and keep it straight as you capture it.
Wrap the herl forward to form the body and tie it off, putting in an overhand knot if you are about to use the rotary function so the thread cannot unwind.
Counter-wrap the copper wire forward, wiggling it side to side as it goes so it works between the herl fibres rather than crushing them. Capture it and helicopter the tag off.
Tie in the grizzly hackle. The body is deliberately kept short and set back for this, there is a fair bit of hackle to come.
Palmer the hackle forward, twisting the stem as you go to keep the fibres standing vertical, and take one wrap in front to finish.
Sweep the hackle fibres back and lock them there. Stray fibres can be tidied by touching them very briefly with a lighter, keep the flame well away from the thread.
Dub a pinch of light olive Ice Dub in front, sweep it back and tie it off.
Colour the thread head with an olive marker for a little contrast, making sure the bead stays inverted, then cut the thread away.
Trim the fly up, then finish with a drop of Loon UV resin at the head and cure it.