Head / blob FNF two-toned Jelly, Fire Prawn on Yellow (1 length)
Glue Z-ment (as needed)
Coating Solarez Bone Dry, thin (a little each side)
How to tie it
Mount the Ahrex TP610 size 2 and start the black 8/0 behind the eye, taking touching wraps down the shank to about level with the barb. Hold the thread away from the shank at an angle so each wrap slides into the last.
Trim the tag, then strip the core of the FNF Creeper Chenille bare and tie it in a little way into the bend.
Make the tail by furling: measure the length you want plus a thumb's length to grip, hold the chenille straight out from the hook under light tension and twist it clockwise. Twist until you think it is enough, then twist a bit more. Too much tension will rip it out.
Fold the twisted length back on itself and let it counter-twist anticlockwise onto itself, then tie off without releasing the far end. That is the furled tail, durable and mobile once wet.
Tie a fresh length of Creeper Chenille in for the body and take the thread forward to short of the eye, leaving room for the blob head. Whip finish or half hitch and swing the bobbin out of the way.
Lay a coat of Z-ment along the shank. On any leech or bugger the body material can travel round the bend and foul the hook point; the glue bonds the thread to the shank and to the chenille core.
Palmer the Creeper Chenille forward using the rotary function, ending where you whip finished. Tie off with a wrap behind, a couple in front, another behind and one up and over, and trim. Pull out any legs that are in your way.
Tidy the front into a smooth ramp, the way you would for a stimulator head. The cleaner the base, the easier the jelly is to wrap.
Strip the core of the FNF two-toned Jelly and tie it in right up against the end of the creeper chenille, laying a neat thread base ahead of it, then whip finish or half hitch and get the thread clear.
Add a touch of super glue, then palmer the jelly forward, using a finger to sweep the fibres back as the vice turns. Stop short of crowding the eye.
Bring the thread carefully up through the fibres, sweeping as many back as you can, and trap the jelly with two wraps behind and two in front before trimming. Do not let the thread slip here; with the glue already down there is no undoing it.
Moisten your fingers, stroke the fibres back and build a thread head. This one is deliberately unweighted, for fishing from the shore on a floating line.
Three-turn whip finish and trim. Clear any fibres from around the eye with a cautery tool before resining, otherwise thin resin will walk along them and bridge the eye.
Apply thin Solarez Bone Dry to each side of the head, avoiding the top and bottom where it is most likely to run into the eye, and cure.