Hackle Whiting Bugger Pack, brown grizzly (1, tied in by the tip)
Rib 6X tippet, counter-wrapped (1 length)
Hot spot Orange dubbing (1 pinch)
Glue Zap-A-Gap (brushed on)
How to tie it
Mount the barbless Moonlit ML056 jig hook and cover the shank with Semperfli waxed 8/0, use a heavier thread here, because the thread is what binds the tungsten bead to the shank, ending up by the eye.
Slide the tungsten bead onto a #17 embroidery pin and cut the pin to length, holding the bead close to the eye so the finished fly hangs at a slight nose-down angle rather than dead level in the air.
Lay the pin along the top of the shank and hold it with three to five loose wraps so you can still push it in or draw it out until it looks right, then check the projection again before committing.
Lay down securing wraps, building a little thread up behind the bead, then brush Zap-A-Gap over the wraps rather than dripping it on, brushing gives an even coat that penetrates the wraps.
Bind the pin down with more thread. Build a small thread dam behind the cut end of the pin and keep your wraps off it; the cut end will part your thread the moment it touches.
Tie in a Whiting Bird Fur feather over the cut pin end so it is protected, tips level with where the barb would be, and carry the butts forward to keep the underbody uniform, trimming behind the bead. Add a second feather with the barring matched to bulk the tail.
Tie in two strands of Krystal Flash on the near side, then wrap them round between the hook eye and the tungsten bead to lock them in before stroking them back and cutting them just longer than the bird fur, so the flash tapers into the tail.
Tie in 6X tippet on the far side as the counter-rib and take it back to the tail base.
Tie in the Bugger Pack hackle by the tip at the tail base, then brush a little more Zap-A-Gap over the shank to hold everything and help bed the dubbing fibres in.
Spin Arizona Mega Simi Seal onto the waxed thread, wet your fingertips if it needs grip, starting thin over the hump where the pin sits and building into a thicker noodle. Wrap forward to the bead in two or three sections, watching the hook eye at the front, and pull back or pluck out any over-long fibres.
Palmer the hackle forward, laying the feather on its back so the fibres are pushed rearwards by the dubbing as you go, and take a full extra turn at the front to make a bigger water-pushing head. Tie off behind the bead.
Counter-rib forward with the 6X tippet in the opposite direction to the hackle and the same direction as the dubbing, zigzagging to avoid trapping fibres, this is what makes the body survive fish. Take two wraps at the head, secure with wraps behind and in front, then snip the tippet.
Dub a small orange hot spot behind the bead and whip finish.