Hook Streamer hook plus Fish-Skull articulated shank and sculpin helmet, #4
Thread Brown or to match 6/0 or 140 denier
Materials
Inexpensive strung saddle hackle To match color scheme (2 feathers (marabou support collars))
Barred marabou Brown marabou (2 feathers (tail/body, wrapped))
Fish-Skull Articulated Shank (1)
Senyo Laser Dub Dark brown (top) and light tan (bottom) (3 stacked clumps per shank)
Fish-Skull Sculpin Helmet Brown fish skull sculpin helmet (1)
How to tie it
Slip a piece of tying tubing over the hook point (marabou protection), then lay a short thread band to about mid-shank of the rear hook.
Tie in a cheap saddle hackle at the back of the thread band and wrap a dense little collar about even with the hook point, it's purely a support skirt that keeps the marabou from collapsing when wet.
Prepare a barred brown marabou feather: strip fibers where the stem is thick, pinch off the thin tip section, and tie the feather in by the tip.
Fold the marabou (stroke and pinch the barbs so they sweep rearward), then wrap it forward over the collar, stroking fibers back each turn; tie off, trim, and whip finish the rear hook.
Break (don't cut) the marabou tips back with your fingernails if too long. Breaking leaves a softer edge than scissors.
Mount the articulated shank in the vise and slide the rear hook onto its loop for free-swinging articulation.
Repeat the saddle-hackle support collar and folded, wrapped marabou on the rear of the shank.
Straighten a clump of Senyo Laser Dub by repeatedly pulling and re-laying the fibers parallel, then stack-dub it on top of the shank; add a light-colored clump underneath for a baitfish's dark back and light belly.
Dam thread in front of each clump to stand the fibers up, and repeat the stacked pairs three times up the shank with gaps between clumps for bulk without weight.
Seat the sculpin helmet over the built-up head, secure it in front, whip finish, and cement.